PenePenultimatw Post?

I have mooched through Santiago, got my Compostella, hugged St James, been in the crypt, had a beer in the square, washed, put on clothes that are not plastic quick dry sports things, had a chat with my MSc team mate (and we are on track) and am now mellowing down with a glass of the local white about to get a Paella. Not sure if it is well deserved nor the best place but it is busy with spaniards and comfy seats and looks 'nice' as actually does all of old town Santiago - stunning is probably nearer the mark .

Though maybe I'd avoid it in peak season next year as it is a 'holy' year when they open the big doors into the square and you can get a full papal absolution, on request, apparently and without having to have done the hard slog either!

But, less seriously I also reckon we all have alternative nationalities based on what we really like / are and maybe I'm actually Galician :

The pastries are lots like the french ones just bigger and not as neat and tidy

They do bagpipes and proper seafood (not that tiny med stuff full of bones which is just too fidddly.)

Smoked bacon, salami, Chorizo, decent beer and wine.

Hills and friendly, to a point, with strangers.

Coffee that is 'getting there' but available in even the meanest hamlet and better than Starbucks at a quarter of the price , shops with staff and that look like the one in the 2 Ronnies 4 candles sketch.

Bread that is just 'fantastico', decent hot chocolate, which is made great with a local brandy.

They have a history the rest of Spain, and the rest of the world, has latched onto.

They have black pudding, but there again so does Lancashire.

Hills, trees, rivers, sun, they play rugby and know they are the best bit of Spain and did I mention, hills, trees, rivers, castles, scenery to die for but above all they eat late and well and lots...... !

Hmmm - next they'll claim to have invented TV.

Buen Camino

Santiago Lunchtime

It is difficult to express the range of emotions I have run this morning: elation at actually having done what (even I thought) might just have been a bit too much to hope to do, sadness missing friends and family, happy/sad that the adventure is finishing, wonder at meeting Gino at the Cathedral and, I suppose, a quiet contentedness that even at my relatively mature years there is still plenty left to be amazed at, more good than bad about, and that given a chance, much more often than not, 'it'll be alright'

So am I fundamentally changed by the whole thing? A better person? Mellower? I don't know .. But I do know I have had time to think, to reflect, to remember the difference between good and bad, thought and deed and what is important to me.

But serious bits aside, the whole thing has been a great mix of fun and hard work, carefull planning and cuffing it, real pain and real pleasure and to anyone contemplating the same sort of thing, stop thinking about it, JFDI.

Muy Buen Camino

Sent from Santiago.

Made it!

First view from Mt Gozo this morning and now at 0930 I have made it!

Thanks for all the support.

Andy

Sent from my Nokia phone

Mount of Joy

The Mount of Joy, so called as it is the first point at which you should be able to see the towers of Santiago Cathedral isn't quite what it once was...

Developed in 2003 by the local government in a 1960's housing estate / shopping centre style it accommodates up to about 2000 pilgrims in perfectly acceptable but soulless concrete styleless fashion. I'm sure some one would call it a carbuncle if it overlooked Windsor.

But 3 Euro for a bed and shower gets my vote.

And with only 5km to go I could even hop it, for those who remember Ripping Yarns and Tomkinsons Schooldays, and I will if any one cares/to wager/ donate enough... By text before 10 local.

Otherwise, and as usual the original hop based isotonic local drink is marvellous, and I am sure the second one will be nearly as good too.

And 51km in 2:45 on a fully laden mountain bike I'd be happy on a training run.

Now dinner beckons.

Buen Camino
Sent from my Nokia phone in a bar near Santiago.

Melide and ...

Target fixation.

It has just gone 1215 and I am sat down for lunch after a grand morning cycling. Leaving Portomarin in the mist with a 20km minute climb and the dew forming on each hair on my arms to then break out above the clouds into bright sun and be able to see them below in the valleys - win.

And a slight tailwind, not too hot, a grand coffee stop, nicely up and down hill with a lovely run into Palas de Rei where I even got more Ibruprofen. So 42 km in 2:30 (ish). And only 51 km to Mt Gozo. That poteen last night must have been a Galician druids special mix!

Remembering the golden rule, that most accidents happen at the end of a journey, that one should not get target fixated etc. The really sensible thing to do would be to plod on a bit and have a right gentle day tomorrow.

But I wouldn't be here if I always did the sensible thing. And it would be nice to finish 'in style' so 10 minutes to finish my Bocadilla load up some Aquarius (Spanish Isostar) and 'Game On'.

Muy Buen Camino

Sent from a bar in Galicia

Portomarin

A lovely village that obviously makes its living from the Camino - It is mobbed and there is no room at the inns. And it will only get worse the closer I get to Santiago, maybe the tent and a practice camp were not such a bad idea. And I am glad I have my nice room with a fantastic view too. Serendipity? Lets see what the food is like.

The village is new, rebuilt after the dam drowned the old one and after they had moved the church too!

All bits still functioning though if I did not know better I'd suspect the gentle day has confused them!

Buen Camino.

Sent from my room

If I ever suggest doing something like this again ...

Do not remind me of:

How I felt 3/4 of the way to Roncesvalles on the walkers wet shale in the rain with my HRM at 175++.

How I felt at Roncesvalles in the evening wondering if my knee would force a 'go home'.

How easy it was to get a good nights kip.

How nice it felt on the day of O'Cerbreiro in the bright late morning sun when some one had stolen my legs and replaced them with ice pops.

Or the Leon bypass.

Or the long way across the Mesata into a HeadWind to Santo Domingo.

But do remind me of:

The Santo Domingo Refugio.

Meeting Jesus in the bar.

Montes de Orca

Cruz de Ferro

Burgos

Morcilla

Chorizo

Sunrise in the hills.

The hills.

The vista at O'Cerbreiro

Peace and Quiet

Serendipity

And the remembering you don't get owt for nowt.

In sum then ... When I next think of doing something this daft , who'll join me?

And in terms my family will understand , a flat day yesterday, but Tigger is back fighting fit.

Not just after seeing Gino again, a 70 year old Italian Canadian on a bike he bought for 10 Euros on his 3rd Camino! And we both agree on one thing at the end of the day that first Camino beer is unbelievably fantastico.

Buen Camino.

Yes, I am moving again - just 30km to PortoMarin, it just felt the right thing to do ... So this is my lunchtime report from halfway.