Big Blokes Big Bike Ride - Finished Thanks V2

I have done my 800km plus Pilgrimage.  Shortened through injury!

 

Raised over £2775  so far …

So a Big Thank you.

For supporting the RAFBF, St Barnabas and The Peace Hospice with me.

If you missed the blog you can follow my travels, day by day, blow by blow at the Blog starting here.

If you’d like to see a collection of unfiltered pictures, and there are some good ones (and lots of mediocre and bad ones). Just click to get to the Picassa Album here.

Thoughts ...

I suppose the real summation of the trip to me was day 2 on the Erro Pass when I smashed my GPS, jarred my knee on the rocky slimy stream bed in the hills, realised I was in the middle of Spain, really on my own, not speaking Spanish, with no map, no compass, no-one within 5km, 700km to go, a deadline to achieve, no accommodation booked, a dead phone and no means of re-charging it, out of water, and it wasn't even lunch time! Fantastico, a real adventure not a glorified package holiday! That was when the fun really kicked in 'coz it wasn't likely to get worse, was it?

And now, all over and done? (Not really), I still think about the experience regularly and it still leaves me, generally, somewhat mellower and with a more positive outlook on just about everything – especially peoples innate goodwill.

 I do however, miss the hills, the camaraderie, the solitude, the 'purpose' and the reward for the exertion (and I don't just mean cerveza, morcilla and chorizo, honest) - but that is nicely balanced by a small glow of satisfaction, for having done something I suspected I might not be able to, for having done some good, and for actually finding the time to reflect and re-affirm my values - oh and being back in the bosom of my family. Whom I actually missed terribly at times – shhhh.

And, of course, I’d still like to persuade more of my friends, acquaintances, colleagues, contacts – and actually anyone at all to give a bit to any of my supported charities. ….

Fundraising

Obviously I am back, my knee held up and I didn't fall off! And I am e-mailing everyone I have ever had comms with just in case ….So far I have raised just over £2775 - so a big thank you; to my friends, our friends, old friends, fellow northerners, colleagues and workmates - and actually to everyone who has even spared a thought. And of course, not least to Sue - without whose support I'd still be sitting on the sofa with my knee in an ice pack and at least a stone heavier!

But if you'd like to say 'Thank You' or 'Well done' or just forgot, meant to do something, or think the Blog was worth a pound or two - there is still lots of time and I'd have waited to see what happened too!

The Injury (Short Version)

A week before I went my left knee exploded and I needed Physio, ice packs, drugs etc and the whole thing was in doubt.  Even as far as  a day of departure Medical check which, in turn, cut the journey short by some 250km as that was the ‘compromise’ we reached….

It held out, I can ask for Ibuprofen in Spanish and I can walk, just about, again!  Winning – not yet won.

The bike

It survived better than I did. No punctures, not even a need to pump up the tyres (so that was around 3-5 kg of stuff I didn't need to have taken) and the return trip via Ryan Air was not too bad either. A bit of TLC, a wash, a re-arrange of the bits squashed up for the return journey and some lube and then the same for the bike and she was as good as new too! So, I am a fan, and also of the Schwalbe tyres - as good as the adverts say! But I am even more of a fan of Sudocreme - even better than the adverts say - and hot, sticky, abrasive modern fabrics and sensitive bits (top or bottom) don't mix - but Sudocreme really helps. And it stops you biting your nails!

The future

It was too much fun - bar of course every day when it wasn’t  … But memory is very very selective – already!

So, with a following wind, a bit of luck on timings and some patience from my family next year sees the Arch to Arch ride in aid of Kidney Cancer sufferers and the James Whale Trust as I have an old friend who has asked for, and deserves, my support, so 'Tally Ho' and here we go again.

But, once again, thanks for all the support  - I said it would help, it did, it still does and still leaves me feeling a little bit more positive than I really think I have the right to be. So, go on, its got to be worth a look and a few quid …

In the meantime, and 'till the next bit of madness, Buen Camino.

 

Penultimate BBBBR Blog? (Slideshow)

Home, at last

It has been far too long since I last wrote anything about 'My Camino' and there are many reasons why - but none of them very good, so apologies. However, in between I have managed a week at school and a trip out East – so it hasn’t all been sitting around recovering and being pampered.

However, I have just uploaded all my photographs to a Picasa album and, for those who wish to have a look, and there are some good photogrphs (and lots of poor to average ones too).

The Picasa Album is here: http://picasaweb.google.com/Andrew.Skinz/AllMyCaminoPhotographsSmall?feat=directlink

And maybe a slideshow!

Personally I like the hills, the rooftop panorama, the murky Portomarin and the Cruz del Fuero but there agin they all hold memories so - I like the lot! Bar of course those of me. And for the doubting Thomases - there is even a picture of Gino!

Oh, and thanks for the feedback - I have enjoyed the Blog from the writing end too

Thoughts ...

I suppose the real summation was actually day 2 on the Erro Pass when I lost the GPS, jarred my knee on the rocky slimy stream bed in the hills, realised I was in the middle of Spain, not speaking Spanish, with no map, no compass, no-one within 5km, 700km to go, a deadline to achieve, no accommodation booked, a dead phone and no means of re-charging it, out of water, and it wasn't even lunch time! Fantastico, a real adventure not a glorified package holiday! That was when the fun really kicked in 'coz it wasn't likely to get worse, was it?

And now, all over and done? (No), I still think about the experience regularly and it still leaves me, generally, somewhat mellower - though if truth be told actually just a little bit less understanding of those being less tolerant, gracious or thoughtful towards others than I was before I went. Maybe, this is as a result of seeing the better side of human nature and behaviour from people who share very little of my upbringing, language or culture and the variety of people who can and did do something to make a difference or because it was what they believed in or maybe it is just the impact of a fortnight's solitude and not having to cope with the difficulties of people? I suspect there is a little of both and maybe more of the latter knowing how sociable I can be. See - even an old dog can learn new tricks.

I do however, miss the hills, the camaraderie, the solitude, the 'purpose' and the reward for the exertion (and I don't just mean cerveza, morcilla and chorizo, honest) - but that is nicely balanced by a small glow of satisfaction, for having done something I suspected I might not be able to, for having done some good, and for actually finding the time to reflect and re-affirm my values - oh and being back in the bosom of my family (whom I actually missed terribly at times - shhhh).

Fundrasing

Obviously I am back, my knee held up (more on that to follow) and I didn't fall off! So far I have raised about £2150 which with gift aid becomes about £2710 - so a big thank you; to my friends, our friends, old friends, fellow northerners, colleagues and workmates - and actually to everyone who has even spared a thought. And of course, not least to Sue - without whose support I'd still be sitting on the sofa with my knee in an ice pack and at least a stone heavier!

But if you'd like to say 'Thank You' or 'Well done' or just forgot, meant to do something, or think the Blog was worth a pound or two - there is still lots of time and I'd have waited to see what happened too!

The Knee

OK - For those who followed the saga you'll know my left knee 'blew up' just before I went, that a week of ice packs, elevation, lymphatic drainage tape, PhysiCool (Portable cooling bandage) and ice spray on the way helped me to Roncesvalles - and that a very bad nights sleep in a 200 man dorm (a bit like I imagine sleeping in a jet engine might be) had me worried it would all 'fall apart' on day 2. Well my very own small pharmacy (ibuprofen and paracetamol) and more use of the bandage and cooling spray and an emergency ibuprofen re-supply in Spain got me through though there were a few days at he start when it was not a pleasant task to get up, un-stiffen, start up and go but it got easier! So, of course, this is not the end. The knee 'went' because, like a good lad, I had sorted a new set of podiatrist approved inserts for my bike shoes to avoid problems - and you guessed it - they seem to have caused the problem. So, of course back in Blighty, with a knee used to cycling it took a week or so to get used to walking and proper shoes, aided by a few excursions to College and the Middle East just to allow the knee time to stick again! But I can now walk, I do not need 13 - 15 pills a day, and I can even still bike. Winning but not fully won, yet.

The bike

It survived better than I did. No punctures, not even a need to pump up the tyres (so that was around 3-5 kg of stuff I didn't need to have taken) and the return trip via Ryan Air was not too bad either. A bit of TLC, a wash, a re-arrange of the bits squashed up for the return journey and some lube and then the same for the bike and she was as good as new too! So, I am a fan, and also of the Schwalbe tyres - as good as the adverts say! But I am also a fan of Sudocreme - even better than the adverts say - and hot, sticky, abrasive modern fabrics and sensitive bits (top or bottom) don't mix - but Sudocreme really helps. And it stops you biting your nails!

Tents etc

I did not need a big sleeping bag, a tent or a cooker! But they were used. However, the extra 5kg was not always appreciated. Ho hum - it did allow me a night off the Refugios and the constant rumbling and explosions of fellow Pellegrinos when I went camping which was bliss, bar the dog pound next door with the party on 'till 2:17am, and a cup of coffee in the hills as the sun rose one day - so all in all, I wish I'd have left them behind! And will get a much smaller and lighter sleeping bag next time too (and yes there will be a next time).

The future

It was too much fun - bar of course the nights I couldn't sleep, the day I was so 'burnt out' I was cold even though it was 28C + and I was pedalling up a monster hill, the early starts after a Spanish breakfast (not usually very good or very much in a Refugio), all day every day pedalling to create my very own personal sauna (and let me tell you I do not miss the feel of a constant trickle down my spine and the regular drip, drip onto the cross bar, or the rhythmic bleep and uphill bleep bleep of the Heart Rate Monitor or, maybe actually I do?) and the stiff and achy lower back from 10 hours a day on bike! So would I do again? - hmm, absolutely no hesitation - 'Like a shot!'

So, with a following wind, a bit of luck on timings and some patience from my family next year sees the Arch to Arch ride in aid of Kidney Cancer sufferers and the James Whale Trust as I have an old friend who has asked for, and deserves, my support, so 'Tally Ho' and here we go again.

And I'll sift the photo's and do another quick retrospective as I mellow further with a few thoughts on Santiago and how I felt (happy / sad) sitting in the square both all alone and not, surrounded by goodwill in a strange city listening to a Basque piper at the end of the journey.

But, once again, thanks for all the support - I said it would help, it did, it still does and still leaves me feeling a little bit more positive than I really think I have the right to be.

Muy Buen Camino.

Tapas and Santiago Cathedral

OK I have fibbed I reckon I have about 3 more posts - depending on how the world maps out.

Last night I did the tourist thing - mistake. Only redeemed by a quick diversion through a Tapas chain and a Sobranero back at the hotel.

Tonight a fantastic fresh spanish omelette bite with a Galicia Estella at a student bar by the History faculty and then a glass, or 2, of the worlds 4th best wine according to the Wall Street Journal and Clam Paella Tapas in a bar just up the road - I could learn to like Spain, obviously I just need more time and practice .. And the practice has a whole night to run! :)

But as spectacularly good as this sustenance for the body is, the Cathedral roof top tour, 2 pound discount for pelegrinos, is even more spectacular. The roof tiles are granite slabs and its more like an Aberdeen playground than the roof of a Cathedral, albeit without any grafitti, and just stunning views, history and 'gob smacking' - if you have the chance do it.

So at the risk of sounding like the Galicia Tourist Board - Santiago d C is great. And I'll be back - but for absolutely sure not 'on me tod' next time.

And then in a back street Mad Jan the dutch man on the grasshopper - he has made it all the way from Holland! And is so happy.

Buen Camino

PenePenultimatw Post?

I have mooched through Santiago, got my Compostella, hugged St James, been in the crypt, had a beer in the square, washed, put on clothes that are not plastic quick dry sports things, had a chat with my MSc team mate (and we are on track) and am now mellowing down with a glass of the local white about to get a Paella. Not sure if it is well deserved nor the best place but it is busy with spaniards and comfy seats and looks 'nice' as actually does all of old town Santiago - stunning is probably nearer the mark .

Though maybe I'd avoid it in peak season next year as it is a 'holy' year when they open the big doors into the square and you can get a full papal absolution, on request, apparently and without having to have done the hard slog either!

But, less seriously I also reckon we all have alternative nationalities based on what we really like / are and maybe I'm actually Galician :

The pastries are lots like the french ones just bigger and not as neat and tidy

They do bagpipes and proper seafood (not that tiny med stuff full of bones which is just too fidddly.)

Smoked bacon, salami, Chorizo, decent beer and wine.

Hills and friendly, to a point, with strangers.

Coffee that is 'getting there' but available in even the meanest hamlet and better than Starbucks at a quarter of the price , shops with staff and that look like the one in the 2 Ronnies 4 candles sketch.

Bread that is just 'fantastico', decent hot chocolate, which is made great with a local brandy.

They have a history the rest of Spain, and the rest of the world, has latched onto.

They have black pudding, but there again so does Lancashire.

Hills, trees, rivers, sun, they play rugby and know they are the best bit of Spain and did I mention, hills, trees, rivers, castles, scenery to die for but above all they eat late and well and lots...... !

Hmmm - next they'll claim to have invented TV.

Buen Camino

Santiago Lunchtime

It is difficult to express the range of emotions I have run this morning: elation at actually having done what (even I thought) might just have been a bit too much to hope to do, sadness missing friends and family, happy/sad that the adventure is finishing, wonder at meeting Gino at the Cathedral and, I suppose, a quiet contentedness that even at my relatively mature years there is still plenty left to be amazed at, more good than bad about, and that given a chance, much more often than not, 'it'll be alright'

So am I fundamentally changed by the whole thing? A better person? Mellower? I don't know .. But I do know I have had time to think, to reflect, to remember the difference between good and bad, thought and deed and what is important to me.

But serious bits aside, the whole thing has been a great mix of fun and hard work, carefull planning and cuffing it, real pain and real pleasure and to anyone contemplating the same sort of thing, stop thinking about it, JFDI.

Muy Buen Camino

Sent from Santiago.

Made it!

First view from Mt Gozo this morning and now at 0930 I have made it!

Thanks for all the support.

Andy

Sent from my Nokia phone

Mount of Joy

The Mount of Joy, so called as it is the first point at which you should be able to see the towers of Santiago Cathedral isn't quite what it once was...

Developed in 2003 by the local government in a 1960's housing estate / shopping centre style it accommodates up to about 2000 pilgrims in perfectly acceptable but soulless concrete styleless fashion. I'm sure some one would call it a carbuncle if it overlooked Windsor.

But 3 Euro for a bed and shower gets my vote.

And with only 5km to go I could even hop it, for those who remember Ripping Yarns and Tomkinsons Schooldays, and I will if any one cares/to wager/ donate enough... By text before 10 local.

Otherwise, and as usual the original hop based isotonic local drink is marvellous, and I am sure the second one will be nearly as good too.

And 51km in 2:45 on a fully laden mountain bike I'd be happy on a training run.

Now dinner beckons.

Buen Camino
Sent from my Nokia phone in a bar near Santiago.

Melide and ...

Target fixation.

It has just gone 1215 and I am sat down for lunch after a grand morning cycling. Leaving Portomarin in the mist with a 20km minute climb and the dew forming on each hair on my arms to then break out above the clouds into bright sun and be able to see them below in the valleys - win.

And a slight tailwind, not too hot, a grand coffee stop, nicely up and down hill with a lovely run into Palas de Rei where I even got more Ibruprofen. So 42 km in 2:30 (ish). And only 51 km to Mt Gozo. That poteen last night must have been a Galician druids special mix!

Remembering the golden rule, that most accidents happen at the end of a journey, that one should not get target fixated etc. The really sensible thing to do would be to plod on a bit and have a right gentle day tomorrow.

But I wouldn't be here if I always did the sensible thing. And it would be nice to finish 'in style' so 10 minutes to finish my Bocadilla load up some Aquarius (Spanish Isostar) and 'Game On'.

Muy Buen Camino

Sent from a bar in Galicia

Portomarin

A lovely village that obviously makes its living from the Camino - It is mobbed and there is no room at the inns. And it will only get worse the closer I get to Santiago, maybe the tent and a practice camp were not such a bad idea. And I am glad I have my nice room with a fantastic view too. Serendipity? Lets see what the food is like.

The village is new, rebuilt after the dam drowned the old one and after they had moved the church too!

All bits still functioning though if I did not know better I'd suspect the gentle day has confused them!

Buen Camino.

Sent from my room

If I ever suggest doing something like this again ...

Do not remind me of:

How I felt 3/4 of the way to Roncesvalles on the walkers wet shale in the rain with my HRM at 175++.

How I felt at Roncesvalles in the evening wondering if my knee would force a 'go home'.

How easy it was to get a good nights kip.

How nice it felt on the day of O'Cerbreiro in the bright late morning sun when some one had stolen my legs and replaced them with ice pops.

Or the Leon bypass.

Or the long way across the Mesata into a HeadWind to Santo Domingo.

But do remind me of:

The Santo Domingo Refugio.

Meeting Jesus in the bar.

Montes de Orca

Cruz de Ferro

Burgos

Morcilla

Chorizo

Sunrise in the hills.

The hills.

The vista at O'Cerbreiro

Peace and Quiet

Serendipity

And the remembering you don't get owt for nowt.

In sum then ... When I next think of doing something this daft , who'll join me?

And in terms my family will understand , a flat day yesterday, but Tigger is back fighting fit.

Not just after seeing Gino again, a 70 year old Italian Canadian on a bike he bought for 10 Euros on his 3rd Camino! And we both agree on one thing at the end of the day that first Camino beer is unbelievably fantastico.

Buen Camino.

Yes, I am moving again - just 30km to PortoMarin, it just felt the right thing to do ... So this is my lunchtime report from halfway.

Stats time ...

One week.

679km Ridden
5200m Climbed

121km or so left go.

Day 1
St Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles
27km
1400m Climb
Rain

Day 2
Roncesvalles to Estella
89km
400m Climb
Rain to Sun

Day 3
Estella to St Domingo de Calzada
100km
1050m Climbed
Sun and HeadWind

Day 4
St D d C to Burgos
74km (Late Start)
450m Climbed
Sun and slight HeadWind

Day 5
Burgos to Calzadilla de la Cueza
104km
150m Climbed
Sun and nice breeze

Day 6
C d C to Astorga
137km
200m Climbed
Sun and nice breeze

Day 7
Astorga to VillaFranca
76km
700m Climbed
Sun and slight HeadWind

Day 8
Villafranca to Sarria
73km
900m Climbed
Sun and Headwind

No surprise BB is currently Cream Crackered.

Sarria

Any fool can be uncomfortable and the Refugios are getting busy, hot, noisy and I am getting weary.

So its camping on an empty campsite in the shade of the trees and no queues for the facilities, no working to everyone else's rhythm and fingers crossed a good kip.

I am absolutely shattered but set up, washed, showered, dhobi'd, cocoa in hand, phone recharged, with beer and food a few hundred yards away. And Santiago 120 km! That suggests as well as a mountain range I did 68 km today - it seemed much much further even with a rather fantastic descent (just have to come back and do it properly on a road bike but with V brakes).

Little in the book although there is a 14th century castle so if it is good food and a good kip I might not move far - just a shame there was nowhere nice left in Samos 10km away which is a small lovely monastery town - but rough with smooth and I am certainly mellowing nicely here.

And for the cynics - yes there is a bit of ' I have carted this ******** tent and foam thing 600km so I am going to use it.'

Tempting as it is to push to Finistere - unless there is a very good reason I suspect a quiet day tomorrow then 2 short hops to get to Santiago for Wed night, Thu in Santiago and then home Friday.

Buen Camino

(Weary but happy and not in bits.)

Sent from under a tree in Galicia

O Cebreiro

At last! Another day another hill, and for whatever reasons, and I am sure it was not the Sobranero last night ...... I just had no legs, couldn't get warm and so on - right hard work this morning. But that is the last of the 3 mountain ranges so a win.

Just a shame the food is not as nice as the village is beautiful with a view down valleys in every direction and above the cloud too - but we can't have everything. So a drop more sightseeing and then back on the bike. I think I might just have earned your sponsorship and a rest day tomorrow too. And still one bag of Sports Mixtures and 3 Pocket Coffees too - so not rock bottom.

Buen Casino

Villafranca

No room at the first 2 Refugios so off to Villafranca and the municipal Refugio on the outskirts of town. And what a pretty town and, so far a quiet Refugio. And a vending machine that does ice cold beer!

The run down the hill was fantastic, and if I hadn't had a load or if I'd known the road better it would even have been more fun than the run down Green Mountain - certainly faster but full loaded through the hairpins the brakes performed fantastically and there is still loads to spare and it was 8km in about 13 minutes - it took ages to stop grinning.

Ponferrada was surprisingly lovely but it was just too early to stop so I have ended up in Villafranca which should mean a nice day tomorrow too as I can get breakfast and the hills are just on the doorstep.

Buen Camino

El Acebo

Well that is the highest part of the Camino done! And boy am I having to ride the brakes on the way down. Marvellous but almost a waste.

Just short of the summit is the Cruz de Ferro where us Pilgrims leave a stone brought from home - so that is where my Garmin is. As after all, even at best it only told you where you might be - never the path to take. And I knew there was a reason I carried it from Erro too.

And as predicted the closer I get to Santiago de Compostella the busier it gets, though so far Galicia is beautiful - but maybe that is because it has hills, real hills, big ones too!

So once my Bocadilla is munched it is off towards Ponferrada - and no firmer plan yet.

Buenos Camino

Astorga & breakfast

Breakfast, at last a breakfast before I have already burnt off the calories.

Which is particularly welcome as the guide says the next 30km are uphill and the next 20km are seriously uphill! And I had the pleasure of lying awake for most of the night above some one testing the engine on his Vespa in between coughing fits from his roll ups while in the bunk next door there was a chainsaw demo going on. Joy.

But in less time than it takes to make luke warm plastic instant almost coffee flavored stuff I have had 2 cups of OK coffee and 2 croissants so can face the day ahead.

Have a great weekend, I am already.

Buenos Camino

Astorga

Another lovely day and so after the chaos of Leon and its roads ( fully laden downhill in rush hour at 50 kmh on a dual carriage way is interesting but still less scary than Steep Hill in Lincoln) I am in Astorga. Which is handy for the push to the hills tomorrow.

Yet again another fantastic Pilgrim's meal and more great company - this time a Quebecois garden centre owner who makes his real money in hydroponics for the grow your own 'stuff' industry in Canada !

So I am finishing off with a quick Decaff coffee, a Sobranero night cap while he goes off for a smoke ...... and then a gentle start tomorrow after some breakfast for a change and the high point of the Camino.

Have a great weekend.

Buen Camino

Andy

I met Jesus in the bar last night ...

Jesus Maria actually, a nice chap from Bilbao and, he was very proud to let me know a Basque, doing the Camino for a second time. He was great company explaining that the reason pork was so good in Spain was that in 1492 they decided to go Hard line Christian and so every one showed they were Christian by having and eating pigs! And he persuaded me to try the local starter - a family sized cross between tomato soup and baked beans with a bit of chorizo for extra flavour. Yumsk - though not everyone will have agreed in the middle of the night, I even woke myself up.

An early start and then stopped at the top of a hill for a brew (DIY) and to watch the sun rise.

Then a nice cup of coffee, maybe 2, in Mansilla de las Mulas with a Bacon & Queasa Bocadilla for lunch. Ahead of schedule, a bit, so maybe I'll push through Leon. We will see.

Otherwise all is fine though at this rate I will get scurvy , and my caffeine addiction is getting worse - with a slow start until I have found anywhere to do me a brew.

More later, and hopefully my spling is getting better too.

Buen Camino

Sent from my Nokia phone

Calzadilla de Cueza

The nearest Hostel to/half way which is 1 km to go. And yes the weather has been lovely, hence the extra 20km and I did make it in time to use the freezing cold pool.

As usual I damaged to hear everyone flip flopping their way to and from the toilets in the night and suffered a massive caffeine deficit until an early lunch in Castrojerez. And then things started to perk up and the last hour or so was just lovely. Though there are bits of me that ache and I have wondered WHY more than once.

Leon tomorrow and no plans yet for where to stay. Then the rough plan is Astorga Sat night, Ponferrada on Sun, O Cerbreiro Monday, Palas de Rei on Tuesday and then just short of SdC on Wed - but I am sure that will change when I map it out.

Buen Camino

Sent from my Nokia phone

Burgos Part 2

They do black pudding in this part of Spain. It is called Morcilla and is nearly as good as the one from the wooden butcher in Forres but it comes with a char' grilled pepper from the pepper fields I have been riding through which makes it extra good. But for a charger no picture aaron I couldn't help scoffing both portions before I could photo them.

And the San Miguel, brewed here isn't half bad either.

But the Cathedral is fantastic a gothic masterpiece and the city by thwarted river is lovely, busy, spanish, buzzing and with far too many tapas bars. While the other 2 successes are a map that will take me to Santiago and a pair of boxers from a little shop ( pure comedy, pointing, gestures and we got there) to act as Jim Jams.

So the Camino and BBBBR is still on track ...with tomorrow the aim of the Monastery at Carrion de los Condes.

Otherwise little to report, no new injuries, yet, no worsening of the current ones, so far, and I have clean clothes and a nice bed. All is good.

Thoughts with you all. Bueno Camino

The pictures are of the Cathedral towers and the Refuge door.

Burgos - Part 1

What a joy last night was - and I do not just mean the ´Fry up, and the couple of beers - but sheets, a quiet (ish) room, my own shower, not on the top bunk, a glorious town/city and time to appreciate it this morning.  So Santo Domingo comes reccomended unlike ...

 

My Solar Charger which has fried my IPod - so I am onto the Phrase book and schoolboy Spansih I was so bad at I was asked not to bother sitting the O-Level.  But it seems to be working.

 

My GPS which is deader than the Auk.

 

Laundromat Tumble Driers which (as always) don´t do what they are supposed to in the time they are supposed to.

 

But on the other hand some other recommended things are:

 

Headwinds - worse by far than rain.

 

Maps

 

Sudocreme

 

Water and Energy drinks.

 

Downhill runs (note uphill is OK as what goes up ...)

As for Burgos and the run here, OK a ´cheats day´ predominantly on the  touring bike route with some real Camino but changed to go over Montes de Oca (which my guide says was a 500m climb) - which was a win but really hurt on the way up.  A grand lunch in Belorado and then the initial diassapointment of the outskirts of a city before reaching the centre of Burgos.

 

The Cathedral is inspiring, the Refugio fantastic, clean, modern, all mod cons including the web (hence this is not the usual mix of half spelled words and phrases) and I even got here early enough to bag a bottom bunk, get my ´reasty´ kit in the wash and set up home.

 

The plan now to get the dhobi dried, chack the map and plan for the route tomorrow towards Leon aiming for Carrion de Los Condes or a bit further as it is predominantly flat - and which might just be another mix and match day while I get all my bits functioning correctly - enough.

 

More to follow (maybe) fater i have found and devoured several scabby dogs.

 

Buen Camino

 

--

Andy Skinner

 

Please have a look at:   www.bbbbr.org.uk ...

 

Departing Santo Domingo

A late start but dhobi done, dried and so me , bike, clothes and all have had bit of TLC.

Next Burgos. Once I finish my coffee.

Buen Camino

Sent from my Nokia phone

Santo Domino de la Calzada

Ok' another day of just a bit more but after a lovely run up the Camino out of Logrono and a nice jaunt to Najera (after directions from a local biker who spotted me going the right, but wrong, way) I was an hour ahead of schedule and feeling grand ...

But it was a bit further, up a hill, into wind without anywhere to get water than I thought. It is amazing how much you can drink when you exercise ... But it was worth it.

Santo Domino is beautiful a medieval town / city with a glorious Cathedral and good bike shop and a lovely Hospederia run by Cistercian nuns! I have a room' my own bed a balcony that overlooks the town and a garden in which my bike has pride of place.

I have done my dhobi and it is up to dry, I have got provisions for tomorrow - more water! And re-worked my schedule to balance time, knee, hills, paths, tracks, weather and my own stubbornness (and a day off to settle before I come home) . So tomorrow I must get to Burgos any thing else is a win and so on for about 75 km a day (bar one downhill day which balances a nasty climb).

That said today will be remembered for Sudocreme' arguably the best fry up I have ever had ( and yes I ate the egg whites) and for Jan the mad Dutch man riding a grasshopper - all the way form home and with more techno on board than even I,d want!

And for the realisation that the Camino happens, let it, as after all, serendipity rules (ish) .

Happy, well fed and looking forward to a good nights sleep And no bunks and no enforced early start.

Muchos Buenos Camino

And why did I leave my camera on the bike? And why can I do TinterWeb but not voice mail?

Logrono Lunch

First off I did not do last nights Refugio justice, tiny homely run by a Mum and soon with, by my reckoning, 7 if not 8 nationalities all sat down speaking pigeon european to a shared meal, with, of course Vino Tinto. Simple honest and light years away from McDonalds or Starbucks - I can not fault it ('bar the snoring which apparently was not me) and the sense of community will, I hope, stay with me fir a long time ....

As for yesterday's detail , the track to Zubiri from the pass at Erro is not impassable but it was V V treacherous and took 2 hours, a dropped GPS ( which smashed on the rocks but still worked to record position) and a bit more shock loading to/bike and rider ( and bits) than was advisable.

Then leaving Plenty la Reina, following directions even on the third try it was the wrong route to another dead end in a nature (not natures) reserve. So resort to a guaranteed route on the Spain on a postage stamp map from Pamplona Tourist office and that should have taken 2 hours max was nearer 5 and an extra 20 - 30 km.

So today has been roads to Logrono, lunch, not just 2 coffees (3 and grand omelette) a map and a phone charger. I have not spoken english for nearly a day and am now fully reversionary as even my phone refuses to do voice mail

The bike is settling down' as is the knee and I am planning on trying for Santo Domingo but expecting to fall short at Najera. And then re-plan, re-schedule and recover!

Buenos Camino

PS It is Rioja Festival in Logrono so the place is heaving and happy. Shame it is time to move on.

Sent from my Nokia phone

Estella

A quick one after a long day but the knee is holding out even after a stupid descent marked as 'Ok' but far from it . . .

And getting lost in Pamplona after the Sat Nav died the first time. And the 20 km detour after Puenta de la Reina after the second time and having to go full reversion with no map and no compass (As planned though). But a fantastic welcome, hot shower and communal meal (attached) at the Church run Albergue and life is good even if my brakes squeal more than a pig at an abittoir.

And a fantastic chat with a volunteer guide at St Denis Baslica too. So a great day, I am dry at last and very well fed so off to bed and another early start for tomorrow sans Sat Nav and looking for a map!

Sent from my Nokia phone

Roncesvalles

Made it up the Pyrenees!

 

1100m climb in the rain, real rain, real wet, all day long rain!  That said if it wasn´t raining I´d have been just as soggy soggy soggy soggy wet right through like I´d been in a bath.  But 5 Hours of cycling and I´m here at 1600 just as the Refugio opens and I bagged bed 68 of 200.  I´ve done my dhobi, had a shower, laid out my bunk space and now off to bag a Pelegrino´s meal.  It´s a bit like like Seeb and the ´Deed was a series of practice runs - I´ll let you know how the 200 person mixed dorm compares to the 44 man tent and the Pilgrim´s meal compares to the chow hall later.

 

No pictures, on this post as I´m using the Internet in the Refugio (a coverted barn opposite the Monestery manned by Dutch Hospitaleros - amazed a Brit has even one word of Dutch) and haven´t had the phone out all day.  But there are some on the camera, as obviously, I had to stop more than once.  Not just on the 2 wrong turns - one not so bad just a wasted half hour as I missed the tiny track across the river at Valcarlos.  The other wasa nightmare following the walking route alongside the river on a single track damp rock strewn shingle and mud path with a couple of really steep bits where I had to push, brake, pull, brake and so on and switch the HRM off as it was bleeping far too much!  But ´no pain no gain´ as the saying goes so I must be gaining lots!

 

But there are nice people along the way and the coffee at the mid point, a quick chat with a middle aged biker who took a piccy, was a real bonus, as is the interweb in the Refugio.

 

A fantastic start, my thoughts are with one and all who have helped (Sue, Ma, Pa, BJ - I will use the tent ´coz I am not lugging 800km plus and not using it!) and PJ and Helen for looking after ´home´ while I am off enjoying myself.

 

So far - I just wished I brought a Nokia charger - but that is fixable.  And sense of humour and knee remain intact.

 

Buen Camino

--
Andy Skinner

Please have a look at:   www.bbbbr.org.uk ...

Bus to St Jean de Pied Port

At last we are off. OK by bus not by rail but then that seems to be the plan - not quite to plan' if that makes sense.

And with the sun rising and a fairly empty bus bar 4 German Pilgrims and a young American couple the day looks good. Especially after a more than OK espresso at the train station.

The phone goes off shortly both to conserve the battery and for a bit pf quiet but I will try to update each evening as my solar charger gives a bit of a boost.

Now to cool and rest my knee and try nil to think about the next 780 km and today's hills.

Buen Camino

My Bayonne Room mate . . .

The Formule 1 in Bayonne is not in the most salubrious district. Nor is it luxurious but a shower a bed a red hot room mate from Canada and breakfast at 0700. Just what is required.

I have my ticket on the newly re-opened line to St Jean Pied de Port bikes free leaving at 0842 and it is a 20 minute cycle max even in the rain and against the wind this evening . I might even manage to get an early stamp of my Passport but will definitely plan to wait to get that one done.

The knee is holding up well and I have seen my first pilgrim too all good signs

Buen Camino

Overnight to Bayonne

As usual friday traffic and the M25 leave a lot to be desired and so after Milton Keynes some sporadic kip in the stop start traffic until we got to Dover at 1am.

The timings could have been better but the Pride of Dover was empty on the 2 am crossing to Calais, so another good hour racked out in the aft lounge after a quick bedtime cocoa.

Another, good 4-5 hours kip on the way to Le Mans and a stop, discovery that roaming is not enabled and then coffee and a bacon buttie on the bus. Followed by admin, trying to learn Spanish and some more dozing.

The Physicool works and I'd say my knee is now at a good 80 percent with a day's rest to go - so off tomorrow on the bike to Roncesvalles and the first stamp(s) in my Pilgrims Passport.

In the meantime a quick stop at Bordeaux at 1330 and lunch. So Bayonne about 4 ish and off for 0842 train to St Jean Pied de Port.

The night bus to Bayonne

Ok I am on my way. On the European Bike Express to Bayonne. It is empty and I am rhe only passenger until another 2 join at Newport Pagnell. Then that is it 3 of us on 60 odd seater double decker bus with all mod cons and Jason the steward, tea, coffee a bar and a selection of DVD's.

Apparently it is quiet at this time of year, on the way South. And the revised times mean a few hours before Dover then a 1am Ferry and a few hours kip in France followed by a bacon buttie or 2.

It feels weird to finally be on the way, to have time to think rather than react . Hence too a Blog rather than the more ephemeral Tweet or Facebook. And my thoughts are with you all - not least with those about to do the Great North Run or not at home.

Buen Camino

Packed and ready to go ...

It seems ages ago I thought of this trip, and with the tribulations of fitting it around work, Sue's work, PJ, Helen, a 'work's outing' and a few days back at School almost immediately I return it has seemed unlikely at times - not to mention selfish. But the day is here, the bike is packed, I'm off in an hour to rendezvous with the bus to Bayonne and the start of the journey - or should that be re-phrased as, another step on the journey.

The knee is holding up and, perversely, I'm looking forward to testing the 'Physicool' on the bus and having time to think about what I'm doing as opposed to how to do it - but then that is part of the whole 'Camino' thing really.

Well big hugs, fingers crossed and thanks to every one who has supported me in thought, word and deed. I will be thinking of you and hope to be back as planned - not earlier ...

Buen Camino,

Packing

And the practice pack is done too.

Sent from my Nokia phone

Ready to go ...

Well after a nervous 3/4 hour with the Physio and a quick chat with the Doctor I'm cleared off - sort of...


I have serious exercises to do to keep my knee 'sorted' as it is still swollen and hasn't got a full range of movement and I should also make sure it is elevated when possible and iced at the start and end of each day - maybe pouring a cold cerveza over it will do?


In between I have managed a quick 'photo shoot' for the Lincolnshire Echo - who were most chuffed to have some props so here is hoping!

And with freeze spray and 'Physicool' in the panniers, not to mention emough ibruprofen, paracetemol and caffeine to kill several small children - I should be 'OK' but it does mean a 'small' change of plan negotiated with the medics, my wife and my conscience ... Assisted by a change in bus timings.


So the plan is now:

• Friday overnight to Bayonne by bus.



• Overnight in Bayonne for an early train to Saint Jean Pied de Port



• Get the Credential stamped



• Off on the 'easy' route to Roncesvalles

And with a bit of luck it won't be - back down the hill and RTB using one leg.

Buen Camino

Sep 16 2009 - Maybe 2 Days to go ...

Two days to go to my Pilgrimage - or there should be.

I have still to pack, get all the bits together, and make sure it fits on the bike - but that will happen if, and its a big if, my knee holds up. But the Doc and Physio have been really helpful, and I am under strict orders to rest, apply ice every 2 hours, and keep the joint compressed whilst taking as much ibruprofen and paracetemol as I can ingest safely in any 24 hours. Under this regime I can now, at least, straighten my leg, and maybe, with a following wind, be off on Friday.

'D Day' is 14:30 tomorrow when, with an element of luck I'll be cleared to go ... And if so:

The plan is, currently, to extend the bus to Bayonne and then a 'gentle' relatively flat 50km to Saint Jean Pied de Port - which might even be by train depending on how my knee and powers of persuasion end up being. That puts me two and half days ahead of schedule and so I can either take life really easy up the 1200m climb to Roncesvalles or maybe even a taxi so I can start from where the Spanish do.

Reflection suggests that the training and preparation was too easy and that like all good things in life there has to be some pain and effort involved - lets hope its pain up front rather than the harbringer of doom. We'll see and I'll keep you updated.

Preparation

First off the bike:

A Kona Caldera bought in the Christmas sales ...

Fitted with panniers, upgraded handle bar grips and Schwalbe Marathon tyres to 'ease' the rolling resistance and hopefully improve the puncture resistance - so less knobbly tyres than you can see.

Then other bits of kit and travel:

As for kit, big thanks to BJ for a single man's tent and lightweight cooker (just in case the Refugio's are full). And to Leanman for a lightweight Bivvy Bag just in case it gets all too difficult.

have the guide books from the Confraternity of Saint James (so I should know where to go), a Garmin Gecko (so I know where I was), and a Heart Rate Monitor (so in theory I have an idea of when to calm down) a small Pharmacy (so when I fall off / over I have a chance of mending myself), a Spanish in 2 hours course on my old IPod and a couple of pairs of cycling shorts, tops, gloves and of course a nice hat etc.

The European Bike Express (Bus) leaves from Nottingham on Friday morning 18 Sep and my flight back is booked from Santiago de Compostella on Ryan Air with the Bike as excess baggage on Friday 2 Oct - the hard end date.

Then the links:

And of course I have my Justgiving sites set up for:

• RAF Benevolent Fund
• The Peace Hospice
• St Barnabas Hospice

And also that documents my training, plans, route etc.